{"id":829,"date":"2015-01-06T20:14:06","date_gmt":"2015-01-06T18:14:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/skyisnotthelimit.eu\/index.php\/2015\/01\/06\/salalah\/"},"modified":"2020-09-14T05:06:05","modified_gmt":"2020-09-14T03:06:05","slug":"salalah","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/skyisnotthelimit.eu\/index.php\/2015\/01\/06\/salalah\/","title":{"rendered":"Bliskie spotkania z natur\u0105 w Salalah"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

L\u0105dowanie o czwartej nad ranem, gdziekolwiek na \u015bwiecie, nie musi nale\u017ce\u0107 do przyjemno\u015bci. W Salalah, na po\u0142udniowo-zachodnim kra\u0144cu Omanu, jest na to spos\u00f3b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak takie do\u015bwiadczenie przeku\u0107 w co\u015b pozytywnego? Wynaj\u0105\u0107 samoch\u00f3d i prosto z lotniska uda\u0107 si\u0119 w okolice Taqah. Nast\u0119pnie w absolutnej ciszy i samotno\u015bci poczeka\u0107 na s\u0142o\u0144ce, kt\u00f3re wkr\u00f3tce wzejdzie ponad majestatycznymi klifami. Drzemka w samochodzie nie zaszkodzi, a gdy wreszcie zbudzi nas g\u0142\u00f3d \u017co\u0142\u0105dka, mo\u017cna rozkoszowa\u0107 si\u0119 przywiezionym z domu \u015bniadaniem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Fot. A. Fritz-Nowojorska<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

B\u0142og\u0105 drzemk\u0119 mo\u017cna nast\u0119pnie kontynuowa\u0107 nad basenem w jednym z okolicznych hoteli, nad brzegiem Oceanu Indyjskiego. Gdy udamy si\u0119 na spacer po okolicznej pla\u017cy, zastanie nas zagadka do rozwik\u0142ania \u2013 dziesi\u0105tki, je\u015bli nie setki, piaskowych kopc\u00f3w, jeden obok drugiego, wzd\u0142u\u017c linii wody. Zaspane oczy zw\u0105tpi\u0105 na ten niezwyk\u0142y widok – czy to jawa, czy sen? Cz\u0142owiekowi lata lec\u0105, ale pewnych rzeczy z biologii zwierz\u0105t jak nie rozumia\u0142, tak nadal nie rozumie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gdy wreszcie zajdzie s\u0142o\u0144ce, grzechem by\u0142oby nie usi\u0105\u015b\u0107 na tak pi\u0119knej pla\u017cy i nie skosztowa\u0107 porz\u0105dnie sch\u0142odzonego prosecco.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Fot. A. Fritz-Nowojorska<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na wsch\u00f3d od Mirbat prowadzi niezwykle malownicza droga \u2013 poprzez g\u00f3ry do Hadbin (albo Hadbeen) i dalej, wzd\u0142u\u017c b\u0142\u0119kitnych w\u00f3d wybrze\u017ca, do miejscowo\u015bci Hasik. Wedle opinii w internecie, droga ta nale\u017cy do najbardziej malowniczych na \u015bwiecie – dwie godziny czystej przyjemno\u015bci. Widoki istotnie zapieraj\u0105 dech w piersiach, ale doznania najbardziej pot\u0119guje fakt, \u017ce wok\u00f3\u0142 praktycznie nie ma turyst\u00f3w. S\u0105 za to wielb\u0142\u0105dy – na pla\u017cach i na drodze \u2013 podobnie jak tury\u015bci, przemierzaj\u0105 ten nadbrze\u017cny szlak asfaltow\u0105 drog\u0105, bo na jej skrajach s\u0105 albo przepa\u015bcie, albo strome klify, albo pla\u017ce. Takie leniwe, nierzadko niezdecydowane grupy wielb\u0142\u0105d\u00f3w nie u\u0142atwiaj\u0105 \u017cycia kierowcom \u2013 trzeba mi\u0119dzy nimi delikatnie manewrowa\u0107 slalomem. W mi\u0119dzyczasie przystaj\u0105, by zajada\u0107 si\u0119 zielonymi i coraz cz\u0119\u015bciej wyp\u0142owia\u0142ymi ju\u017c na jesie\u0144 li\u015b\u0107mi nielicznych drzewek i krzew\u00f3w.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Droga do Hasik to prawdziwy skarb na turystycznej mapie \u015bwiata. Tu\u017c za Hasik znajduj\u0105 si\u0119 s\u0142ynne wodospady Natif<\/em> \u2013 w porze monsunu wody na skraju tego klifu nie ma prawa brakowa\u0107.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>Fot. A. Fritz-Nowojorska<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

W drodze powrotnej obiadek na trawce, kt\u00f3ra ro\u015bnie dzi\u0119ki temu, \u017ce kilka tygodni wcze\u015bniej p\u0142yn\u0119\u0142a w tym miejscu rzeka (wadi). Jak to mo\u017cliwe? \u2013 tu k\u0142ania si\u0119 geografia \u2026 i biologia, bo w okolicy znowu te kopce na pla\u017cach, tym razem ju\u017c w setkach, albo i tysi\u0105cach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nast\u0119pny w programie jest \u201epunkt antygrawitacji\u201d. Droga wydaje si\u0119 lekko wznosi\u0107. Zatrzymujemy samoch\u00f3d, wrzucamy na luz i \u2013 po chwili- samoch\u00f3d sam zaczyna toczy\u0107 si\u0119 \u2026 pod g\u00f3r\u0119! Trudno w to uwierzy\u0107, wi\u0119c powtarzam pr\u00f3b\u0119. Tym razem z utrudnieniem – ruszam powoli do ty\u0142u, na wstecznym biegu, aby po chwili wrzuci\u0107 z powrotem na luz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Samoch\u00f3d wyhamowuje, staje, by po chwili ruszy\u0107 do przodu!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0106wiczenie powtarzamy wielokrotnie, r\u00f3wnie\u017c po ustawieniu samochodu w przeciwnym kierunku. Jaka magiczna si\u0142a ci\u0105gnie go pod g\u00f3r\u0119? Albo to cud, albo iluzja optyczna! Jakakolwiek by\u0142aby prawda, mo\u017cna si\u0119 przy tym nie\u017ale bawi\u0107! Punkt ten nie jest \u0142atwo znale\u017a\u0107, zainteresowanym polecam u\u017cycie nast\u0119puj\u0105cych wsp\u00f3\u0142rz\u0119dnych w nawigacji: 17\u00b02’12″N 54\u00b036’46″E.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I wreszcie kulminacja \u2013 Salalah s\u0142ynie z intensywnej zieleni. A wszystko za spraw\u0105 monsunu znad Oceanu Indyjskiego, kt\u00f3ry raz w roku nawiedza ten region. Krajobraz zmienia si\u0119 wtedy zadziwiaj\u0105co \u2013 kwitnie bujna ro\u015blinno\u015b\u0107, do \u017cycia powracaj\u0105 suche przez wi\u0119ksz\u0105 cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 roku wodospady, a koryta wadi wype\u0142niaj\u0105 si\u0119 wod\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Droga do Wadi Darbat<\/em> prowadzi przez skaliste g\u00f3ry, kt\u00f3rych zbocza, w miar\u0119 zbli\u017cania, przekszta\u0142caj\u0105 si\u0119 w oniemielaj\u0105c\u0105, bujn\u0105 ziele\u0144. Po drodze mija si\u0119 stada wielb\u0142\u0105d\u00f3w, beztrosko obcuj\u0105cych z wszechobecn\u0105 zieleni\u0105. Innych zwierz\u0105t te\u017c nie brakuje, w tym podobno wyj\u0105tkowo dokuczliwych komar\u00f3w, dla kt\u00f3rych ten unikalny mikroklimat jest rajem. Na szcz\u0119\u015bcie pod koniec sezonu monsunowego bliskie spotkania z tymi insektami s\u0105 rzadko\u015bci\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>Fot. A. Fritz-Nowojorska<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

W drodze powrotnej do Salalah znowu zwierz\u0119cy slalom – tym razem mi\u0119dzy krowami. Lenie, i to \u015bmierdz\u0105ce! \u2013 mo\u017cna tr\u0105bi\u0107 im nad uchem, a i tak nie zauwa\u017c\u0105 problemu zmniejszonej (do zera) przepustowo\u015bci drogi. Nie m\u00f3wi\u0105c ju\u017c o podj\u0119ciu wsp\u00f3\u0142pracy w celu jego rozwi\u0105zania. Obfita trawa t\u0142umaczy powszechno\u015b\u0107 hodowli kr\u00f3w w tej okolicy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na deser \u2013 bajeczna pla\u017ca w Mughsayl. Oddalona od Salalah ok. 40 km, jest jednym z ulubionych miejsc na piknik w\u015br\u00f3d miejscowych. Nawiasem m\u00f3wi\u0105c, og\u00f3lnodost\u0119pna infrastruktura piknikowo-wypoczynkowa w Omanie jest imponuj\u0105ca, zw\u0142aszcza w por\u00f3wnaniu z Katarem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pla\u017ca w Mughsayl to kilka kilometr\u00f3w bia\u0142ego piasku, a na obu skrajach wyrastaj\u0105 tu klify. Dzie\u0144 w dzie\u0144, noc w noc, walcz\u0105 tu ze sob\u0105 \u017cywio\u0142y \u2013 uderzaj\u0105ce o klif fale nie poddaj\u0105 si\u0119 tak \u0142atwo przeszkodzie i przez szpary w ska\u0142ach znajduj\u0105 uj\u015bcie swej energii na szczycie klifu. Nie obywa si\u0119 bez z\u0142owrogiego syczenia. \u015amia\u0142kowie tacy, jak ja, rzucili wyzwanie temu wydmuchiwanemu si\u0142\u0105 oceanu prysznicowi i wiedz\u0105, \u017ce ice bucket challenge<\/em> si\u0119 przy nim nie umywa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To dopiero nazywa si\u0119 bliskie spotkanie z natur\u0105!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I jak tu wci\u0105\u017c nie wraca\u0107 do Omanu<\/a>?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wi\u0119cej zdj\u0119\u0107 na picasa<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P.S. Przepi\u0119knie o regionie Dhofar i okolicach Salalah opowiada niedawny dokument BBC<\/a> (dost\u0119pny obecnie na pok\u0142adzie Qatar Airways)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

L\u0105dowanie o czwartej nad ranem, gdziekolwiek na \u015bwiecie, nie musi nale\u017ce\u0107 do przyjemno\u015bci. W Salalah w Omanie, jest na to spos\u00f3b. Jak takie do\u015bwiadczenie przeku\u0107 w co\u015b pozytywnego?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":612,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[11,30,44,6],"class_list":["post-829","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-globtroter","tag-arabia","tag-oman","tag-plaza","tag-podroze"],"yoast_head":"\nBliskie spotkania z natur\u0105 w Salalah - Sky Is Not The Limit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/skyisnotthelimit.eu\/index.php\/2015\/01\/06\/salalah\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bliskie spotkania z natur\u0105 w Salalah - Sky Is Not The Limit\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"L\u0105dowanie o czwartej nad ranem, gdziekolwiek na \u015bwiecie, nie musi nale\u017ce\u0107 do przyjemno\u015bci. 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